Cape Road Trip

Somehow I ended up working a week with no days off and that will continue right through Thursday night. I see a four-day weekend ahead (by then it will be an 11-day work week) which keeps me focused on the prize, but I will be working one of those four days at the kennel and another will be spent at a 5k road race (unless I decide against running it). I actually don't mind the work, but Sunday really beat me up at the kennel. I had two humongous labs to bathe - each easily weighing 100 pounds) which took a lot out of me. Luckily it was a beautiful day so I was able to rig the grooming spray hose to a fifty foot hose and washed them outside which meant no lifting them into the tub. Of course that still keeps you bent over for far too long, but it's a better choice.

Anyway, it's a long week. I decided after the kennel on Monday morning I would take a road trip 'down Cape'. There have been reports of nice surf coming in from Hurricane Igor well to the east and I have not seen the Atlantic in a while. When I say I have not seen the Atlantic, I mean that I have not seen the ocean itself. Sure, around here we have salt water that is mistakenly referred to as the Atlantic, but in my opinion you can only see the Atlantic on Cape Cod if you are on the coast from Chatham to Provincetown. Our waters are fed by the Atlantic and I consider them not the same. Vineyard Sound, Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay are examples of what I mean. The Atlantic Ocean itself has a feel all it's own. A power not to be mistaken for a wimpy bay or sound, though any of the above can be down right nasty in the right conditions and indeed two fishermen were swept out into Cape Cod Bay last week. One died.

Mrs has been buried in books since starting the nursing program at the college and she was facing an exam on Monday night. I decided to put the 4Runner in have-dog-will-travel mode and bring them along. I didn't plan to leave the car much and it was plenty cool enough outdoors for them to be left inside with the windows open if I needed to. I am not a big fan of bringing the dogs out in public, or dogs running loose, but I had no plans to do either.

Logan and Bella ready to ride.

FBF is located in the southwest corner of the Cape and my plan was to make it to Eastham, at a minimum. I left the house around or slightly after 1 pm. It was windy and only in the 60s, but the radiation from the sun made it feel warmer. I wore jeans, but for most of the trip did not need to put anything over my short-sleeved shirt.

This is Route 6 east bound on a portion of road between exit 9 and the Orleans Rotary referred to as Suicide Alley. For a time there were some horrific car crashes on this stretch, but I don't recall anything terrible recently.

First stop on this mini-road trip is Fort Hill in Eastham. This is an expansive and wonderful place to walk. Fort Hill overlooks large areas of salt marsh and the Atlantic is seen in the distance. Fort Hill lies within the Cape Cod National Seashore. Thank goodness for the creation of this large area of national park land. I can only imagine how horrid the development of the area would have been.

Penniman House sits on Fort Hill, though not at the very top as the description at the link would have you believe. Obviously whaling is a major part of history here. While I acknowledge that history, I hope we never repeat it.

Nauset from the parking area near Coast Guard Station in Eastham.

Coast Guard Station, Eastham, MA

Parking area and overlook at Nauset Light. There were a lot more people here, I assume for the access to the viewing platform and the Nauset Beach Lighthouse.

Here is a video from our local paper that was online on Tuesday 9/21 (when I typed this thing up).





Nauset Beach Lighthouse. The lighthouse and building had to be moved back and away from the dune in 1996 due to coastal erosion. It should be quite some time before it needs to be moved again. For information and images of the move, visit this link.

Next stop, and by far my favorite, was at Cahoon Hollow in Wellfleet. Also part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, this area provides beautiful and close up views of the Atlantic. The dunes/cliffs here are eroding badly and a steep, makeshift path with an abrupt switchback was created to provide access to the beach below.

There were relatively few people here, and I was actually alone for a bit of time. The wind was howling and the huge waves crashing. I decided to get the dogs out and take a walk on the beach. The walk down the path was a little tricky, but well worth it.

The Atlantic at low tide.
Cahoon Hollow, Wellfleet, MA.


I took this shot while walking down the path. There is a small 'rest area' at the switchback. This is looking south/southeast.

Logan was not overly thrilled to be out on the beach and was doing his best to keep me from getting too near the waves. Bella was sticking to my side so she was not in a place that I could get her with the camera. Logan does sit and stay fairly well.

Logan at Cahoon Hollow, Wellfleet, MA.

After playing on the beach for a little while and enjoying being the only one on it, we ran up the dune using the steep path. Logan took the lead as he always does and practically dragged me up the steep incline. It was great fun. I loaded the dogs into the 4Runner and we sat for a little bit enjoying the view before moving on.



I had to stop in Truro to see Highland Light. This lighthouse has a long history and was also saved and moved back from the bluff in 1996. It's a beautiful area with limited parking, especially in the summer months. There is also a small golf course nestled in the area. It is well worth the short walk to the light. On the left side of the building is a small gift shop and the lighthouse tower is usually open for tours. I did not go up (though I wish I had) because the dogs were in the car. Next time.

Also of interest and where I parked is the Highland House Museum run by the Truro Historical Society. Again, I did not go inside, but am filing it away in the 'must do' file.

Provincetown is the northernmost point and the 'tip' of Cape Cod. Race Point Road and Provincelands Road run through about the center of the Seashore and is pretty fantastic. There is also a long and somewhat challenging bike path through the area. The green in the map below represents Cape Cod National Seashore property in Provincetown. The little icon for the airport in the upper left side also happens to point north. I'll use that as a landmark for things described in the coming photos.



Race Point. Over-sand vehicles, most likely fishermen, on Race Point. On the map above, this area is almost directly in front of the airport icon at the water. You can walk this stretch out to Race Point Lighthouse, but I am sure it's a long and strenuous walk in the sand. The light house would be on the point that touches the edge of the map on the left side.

View looking the other direction at Race Point. This area is one of few places in Massachusetts that whales can be seen from land. A scope or binoculars helps, but it is possible to see them and indeed I have. Usually it's the spouts that are seen, but on occasion some do breech, so it's worth a look.

Surf casting at Race Point.

Couple enjoying a bottle of champagne at Race Point.

Dunes overlooking the Atlantic at Race Point.


Fencing to keep people off of the dune grass. These grasses help keep the dunes in place.

On the southwest side of Provincetown is Herring Cove. Herring Cove is a beautiful stretch of beach. Really, this area of water is just as open as the Atlantic (even though it is technically Herring Cove), but as you may be able to see from the photo, there is hardly a ripple in the water. In this case the beach is protected from the wind and swells coming in from the east which keeps the water calm.

I took this shot while traveling on Provincelands Road. It's a good example of what the interior of some of the National Seashore looks like, particularly in Provincetown.

After Provincelands Road leaves the National Seashore there is a small rotary where it joins Commercial Street. This shot is taken from the sidewalk near the rotary. On the map above the lowest point of on the white portion of the map appears as a sort of small bump or peninsula. there is a stone dike (pictured) that you can walk across the water to Wood End. There is a lighthouse out there (called Wood End Lighthouse, of course). This is still not - but almost - the tip of the Cape. The very tip of the Cape is called Long Point. I am sure it's possible to get out there, but I have never done it. Maybe someday.


The dogs were absolutely exhausted from their afternoon on the road. I am glad I brought them along. It gave Mrs time alone to study, and gave them something to do other than sit around the house.


I think it's clear how Logan feels about the day.